Crossing the Dolomites
Our expedition is beginning to take shape:
Four of us intend to cross the Dolomites at their widest point, from north to south, in the region of the Dolomites high altitude trail no. 1. Roughly: between Vintl and Feltre.
Our motto is the same as it was for our successful Skitransalp expedition - "Fun rather than speed".
This expedition is not about records and superlatives. It's all about sharing an authentic experience with good friends and reliving the experience with others through media coverage and in a series of lectures.
We are planning to climb the following routes:
Furchetta North Face (alternatively Sas Rigais North Face), Langkofel North Face, Sella, Marmolada South Face Solda Route (alternatively West Ridge), Cimone della Pala North West ridge, Cima della Madonna The Veil's Edge, etc. .......
The expedition will cover:
approx. 140 km on footpaths and high altitude trails.
approx. 6,000 m climbing on II to VI grade routes.
approx. 5,000 m on Via Ferratas.
We expect the expedition to last 15 to 18 days.
Please get in touch with me if you have any further questions.
Best regards
Bernd
At this point I want to thank our equipment sponsors Leki , Petzl , Gregory and Satmap.
Dolomites Cross started on August 25. and ended on September 5.
Day 12: Sunday, September 5
From Passo Cereda we went on Dolomitenweg number 2 via Forcola di Comedon to Rifugio Boz (1718 m). Further on we walked on a scenic trail, from which we descended to Riifugio Piaz (1993 m) and the village Croce del Aune (1015 m): A monster passage with 35 kilometers and 2300 vertical meters. As the weather forecasts are getting worse and we walked under overcast sky the whole day we decided to go all the way down to our destination Aune at Feltre.
In a few days we will write a conclusion and put in more pictures to every day's passage. And a review of the route plus list of equipment, too.
We are more than lucky now and had a dream of a tour: 12 perfect days in the mountains.
Day 11: Saturday, September 4
Today we went from Rifugio Velo della Madonna to Cima della Madonna and climbed the Schleierkante. It worked out perfectly, as we had half a day's window of good weather. And that we used: The rock offered an immensely beautiful climbing in solid limestone, 12 rope lengths up to the fifth degree. But protection was sparse, with only here and there a rusty piton, and it was icy cold. At the summit the sun was shining. Then we were abseiling some rope lengths, climbed down and took lunch in the hut.
From the hut we descended southwest of the Cimerlo (2503 m) to Valle dei Canali, crossed it and went up to Passo Cereda (1361 m). Here we stayed in the Albergo (boarding-house) Cereda. It was a long day: We have walked 1000 vertical meters and 16 kilometers only, plus 1800 meters down. But with climbing the ridge it was a fully filled day.
From the hut we descended southwest of the Cimerlo (2503 m) to Valle dei Canali, crossed it and went up to Passo Cereda (1361 m). Here we stayed in the Albergo (boarding-house) Cereda. It was a long day: We have walked 1000 vertical meters and 16 kilometers only, plus 1800 meters down. But with climbing the ridge it was a fully filled day.
Day 10: Friday, September 3
Today we marched from Rifugio Mulaz in good weather conditions on the Dolomitenweg 2 (Dolomites Trail 2), here being called Sentiero delle Farangole, via Passo delle Farangole (2932 m) with its ferrata to Rifugio Rosetta alter G. Pedrotti (2581 m).
Here we took a break, walked somewhat further on this panoramic trail and then using three ferratas crossed over to Rifugio Velo della Madonna (2358 m) to climb the Schleierkante (Bridal Veil Ridge) at the Cima della Madonna (2752 m) tomorrow. The last two or three hours scrambling it was raining, so the rock was quite slippy.
But still we managed the ferratas quite well. Today we have walked 14 kilometers and 1300 vertical meters in six hours, a passage of medium length. The hut is really wonderful. We are optimistic about the weather tomorrow, so we could climb the Schleierkante.
Day 9: Thursday, September 2
Today was our longest day. We have walked 30 kilometers and about 2300 vertical meters. Always up and down in fine, but windy weather. I could take many pictures. From Sentiero (trekking trail) Italia we made a trip to Sasso Vernale (3054 m). From here the south face of Marmolada looked like expected: The upper ravines and funnels full of snow. It was the right decision to do without a climbing tour. In Rifugio Fuchiade we took a second breakfast with fried eggs and speck (ham) and then marched over Passo San Pellegrino (1919 m) via Monte Pradazzo (2279 m) to Passo di Valles (2031 m). There we refreshed at hot chocolate and cake and went past Cima Venegiota up to the Rifugio Mulaz (Rif. Volpi al Mulaz, 2560 m). All the time Cimon della Pala (3184 m) stood in front of our eyes, its upper north ridge being snow covered and its cracks iced up. Around our hut there is nothing different, and a cold wind blows.
Day 8: Wednesday, September 1
The perfect day! At dawn we went from Pordoijoch on the Bindelweg, a panoramic trail, and had a superb sunrise. In great weather we walked over to Lago di Fedaia (2053 m; at the foot of Marmolada). After going up to Rifugio (hut) Pian dei Fiacconi (2625 m) we crossed westward below the Marmolada glacier (Ghiacciaio della Marmolada). The following ascent on the glacier to Forcola (mountain pass) Marmolada (2910 m) was in deep snow (20-30 cm of new snow), so we went up without crampons problemless. Before yesterday's snowfall it would have been critical, what with hard corn snow and our relatively light shoes.
The Marmolada Ferrata on the West Ridge was formidable, with cloudless sky, but completely wrapped in snow and ice. Also the ledges and funnels of the upper south face were full of snow. We can forget our planned climbing route in this wall! Finally we reached Punta Penia (3342 m), the main summit of Marmolada. In the small hut here the keeper tells us that this is the finest day of the whole summer. But conditions are more like winter, with the main mountain chain of the Alps from Ortler to Großglockner deep in snow.
The air is so crystal clear that in the south you see as far as the plain of the Po river and the Adriatic sea. We then went down again on the West Ridge carefully because of the ice and descended from Forcola Marmolada southward to Rifugio Contrin (2016 m). Today we walked more than 1800 vertical meters and nearly 20 kilometers. We are excited and happy. Tomorrow we will go over Passo di Pellegrino and Passo Valles to the Pala mountains. We hope that there is less snow over there.
Day 7: Tuesday, August 31
Today we wanted to climb Piz Boé, the main summit in the Sellagruppe, from Sellajochhaus using the Pössnecker Klettersteig (ferrata). But this was still in snow, and the clouds were hanging low in spite of a quite good weather forecast. So we walked down some bends on the Sellajoch road and in beginning snow fall went up from the south via the Val Lastiés reaching the Boéhütte (2871 m) in swirling snow. Here we took a meal. In howling snow storm we crossed Piz Boé (3152 m) and went down the southwest ridge. From this hell of a snow storm we ran down to the Pordoijoch (Passo Pordoi; 2242 m).
Down here, around the Albergo Savoja, there are green meadows, the clouds are ripping up and blown away by the foehn storm. Tomorrow we will walk to the foot of Marmolada (the highest and only seriously glaciered mountain of the Dolomites) and try to climb the summit via the Ferrata Marmolada on the long West Ridge. At least we are experienced now with snowy and glaced ferratas.
Day 6 : Monday, August 30
Today's bad weather comes in handy. We are sitting comfortably in the guestroom of Sellajochhaus, are planning for the next days and have a look at the snow piling up outside.
Day 5: Sunday, August 29
It turns out that the German degree IV+ (about 4) in the steep Dolomite rock of the Langkofel-Nordkante is more difficult than usual. You should be able to climb substantially more than degree four. On top of that there are few pitons, at one rope length of degree four only one in 45 climbing meters. The lime stone is partially fragile and still wet because of the rain the day before yesterday. There are even icicles in the north facing key lengths of the route. In short: An alpine climbing tour that is made quite seldom.
In spite of this I could take many photos which, naturally, made the climb up longer. The four-hour climb down with long passages in degree two and some abseilings still took us all the concentration we had. After one of my longest and most wearing down tours we again reached the Sellajochhaus in the light of our head lamps. Now we are completely exhausted and need a day's rest.
Day 4 : Saturday, August 28
In great weather we went up from Wolkenstein to the Sellajoch (a pass; 2244 m). Here we originally wanted to take a rest in the afternoon. But then the limestone rock at the Sella towers looked so coarse and well that we instantly climbed a 6b-route, secured with bolts, the new "Delenda Carthago" with 6 pitches. After that we walked to the Sellajochhaus (2180 m), from where we tomorrow want to climb the Nordkante (North Ridge) of the Langkofel. This is one of the longest classic routes in the Dolomites, with 1000 vertical and 1500 climbing meters.
Day 3 : Friday, August 27
Today we wanted to climb an alpine climbing route, the Livanos-Pfeiler, which would have been dry. But the weather forecast was pretty bad as it would forecast thunderstorms since noon. So we already started before sunrise. At dawn we saw too many clouds in the sky, so we decided spontaneously against the climbing route which would have taken us seven to eight hours. Instead we crossed the Sass Rigais (3025 m; main summit of Geisler-Gruppe) on two ferratas. That was worthwile as we had impressive cloud movements, great light-impressions and, naturally, we have been at the summit alone. Then we went down fast to the Regensburger Hütte which we reached at 10 o'clock.
After hurrying down to Wolkenstein (1563 m; in Grödner Tal) we had pouring rain and thunderstorms in the afternoon.
Tomorrow we will go to Sellajoch (2244 m) and climb some base climbs there (with a few rope lengths and bolts). After another 25 kilometers today - and those fast - we will need this quieter day. For Sunday we have planned the Nordkante (north ridge) of Langkofel (3138 m). The weather forecasts are excellent now, so it should work and we are looking forward to steep rock routes.
After hurrying down to Wolkenstein (1563 m; in Grödner Tal) we had pouring rain and thunderstorms in the afternoon.
Tomorrow we will go to Sellajoch (2244 m) and climb some base climbs there (with a few rope lengths and bolts). After another 25 kilometers today - and those fast - we will need this quieter day. For Sunday we have planned the Nordkante (north ridge) of Langkofel (3138 m). The weather forecasts are excellent now, so it should work and we are looking forward to steep rock routes.
Day 2 : Thursday, August 26
Today we started shortly after a great sunrise from the Maurerberghütte. The magnificient Peitlerkofel was in swirling clouds. Via Würzjoch (1987 m) we walked to the Peitlerkofel and went up to the summit on the ferrata.
Great weather with superb scenery: from Großglockner to Zillertaler Alpen and the Ortler area. After that we went down to the Schlüter-Hütte (hut; 2297 m), took a meal there and hiked on a long trail beneath the mountains around the Geisler-Gruppe (massif) to the Regensburger Hütte (2037 m) on their southern side. Here we will sleep the second night. Tomorrow we will try the Livanos-Pfeiler (pillar) in the Geisler-Gruppe. We are feeling very well though we again have walked approximately 1700 vertical meters and 23 kilometers of distance today.
Great weather with superb scenery: from Großglockner to Zillertaler Alpen and the Ortler area. After that we went down to the Schlüter-Hütte (hut; 2297 m), took a meal there and hiked on a long trail beneath the mountains around the Geisler-Gruppe (massif) to the Regensburger Hütte (2037 m) on their southern side. Here we will sleep the second night. Tomorrow we will try the Livanos-Pfeiler (pillar) in the Geisler-Gruppe. We are feeling very well though we again have walked approximately 1700 vertical meters and 23 kilometers of distance today.
Day 1 : Wednesday, August 25
We are the first day on the road. The weather is comparatively well, only some clouds and agreeable temperatures. Today we walked from Vintl (near the exit of the Pustertal) to the Maurerberghütte (mountain hut; 2130 m) above Würzjoch, that was about 25 kilometer und 1800 vertical meter on a really nice scenic way (where you get first impressions of the Dolomites). We just sit on the terrasse of the hut and have a look to the Peitlerkofel (2875 m) in the Naturpark Puez-Geisler.
The north face is still wet because of torrential rain last night. So we decided to do without the planned climb. Tomorrow we will go from south via the ferrata to the Peitlerkofel. As the northern walls are all wet we have chosen the Livanos Pillar, named according to a well known French climber, on the southern side of the Geisler-Gruppe as climbing destination for the day after tomorrow.
The north face is still wet because of torrential rain last night. So we decided to do without the planned climb. Tomorrow we will go from south via the ferrata to the Peitlerkofel. As the northern walls are all wet we have chosen the Livanos Pillar, named according to a well known French climber, on the southern side of the Geisler-Gruppe as climbing destination for the day after tomorrow.
